ITINERARYThink Japan, and most of us picture the high-rise, techno, luminous, modern cities. Now picture shrines, waterfalls, wildlife, UNESCO world heritage sites, natural hot springs and gardens all entwined with tradition, culture and beauty. We venture into this country of fascinating extremes to trek through mountainous landscapes, along an ancient pilgrimage route to the Three Great Shrines of Kumano, a route originally followed by emperors travelling from Kyoto to Yomi no Kuni (The ‘Land Beyond’). We end our trek with a visit to Nara, a cultural city with temples, shrines, palaces and museums, before returning to Osaka for our celebrations.
DAY 1 DEPARTURE
DAY 2 OSAKA - MOUNT KOYA
On arrival we are met by our guides and transferred to our accommodation at Mount Koya. We have the afternoon to relax before a welcome meal and briefing. We sleep tonight in a Buddhist temple.
DAY 3 RYUJIN ONSEN 4hrs trekking
We wake early for simple morning meditation, before starting our challenge with a hike around the great Buddhist monasteries on Mount Koya, visiting Okunoin, where Kukai is enshrined. Part of the walk, through tall cypress trees, passes several thousand tombstones and monuments to emperors, shoguns and samurai, landlords and poets. In the afternoon we drive south from Mount Koya, to Ryujin Onsen hot springs, where we overnight in a local recreation centre.
DAY 4 NAKAHEJI - CHIKATSUYU 6-7hrs trekking
Today we start our trek along the old Nakaheji pilgrimage path to Kumano. From the start at Takijiri Oji, the path climbs steeply up to the ridge-top village of Takahara. The path has been established as one of Japan’s national historic roads, with views along the Old Kumano Road, with wave after wave of ridges, as far as the eye can see. Although rarely seen these days, there are small bears in the Kumano Mountains and, more commonly, deer and wild boar. Wayside shrines, where walkers stamp their small pocketbooks, encourage regular rest stops. Our descent into Chikatsuyu marks the end of the first day of the walk. The night is spent in a family run ryokan.
DAY 5 YUNOMINE & HONGU GRAND SHRINE 5-6hrs trekking
The path continues through the mountains to Yunomine, one of the oldest natural hot spring villages in Japan. There is an increasing sense of solitude and purpose as we progress towards the three great shrines of Kumano, passing small jizo statues on the way. Nobles would rest at points called oji, to refresh themselves and compose poems, and their poetry is actually engraved on stone monuments sited along the path. Today’s trek takes us to one of the most important shrines in Japan, the Kumano Hongu Taisha, from here we hike over the ridge to our ryokan lodgings in Yunomine hot springs.
DAY 6 KOGUCHI 6hrs trekking
Today there is a long gentle climb over the Kogumotori Pass 470m, to the small village of Koguchi. Although the distance is slightly shorter today, with fewer ascents and descents, the walking is still challenging as we hike over the Kogumotoritoge (‘Small Cloud-taking Pass’) at 466m. Historically, the mountains formed an almost impenetrable barrier and thus, communication was difficult, with only pilgrims making the tough route. Here the mountain sides are too steep to build on and consequently it is only in the valleys that the villages can be found. Tonight dinner is prepared by a gyoja, a mountain priest of the shugendo sect of Buddhism, in a nearby village.
DAY 7 NACHI 5hrs trekking
The final leg of this trek along the Nakaheji footpath is a long morning climb over the Ogumotori Echizen Pass 870m, the ‘Great Cloud-taking Pass’, followed by a descent to the Nachi Shrine. The shrine and temple complex overlooks Nachi-no-taki waterfall, the highest in Japan at 133 meters. We overnight at the Sonshoin temple, an appropriate resting place after our long walk. The lodging has a pretty Japanese garden, and a beautiful view of the waterfall and surrounding forest.
DAY 8 NARA 1-2hrs trekking
For the energetic, if we can get up at 5.30 a.m. this morning, we take part in morning meditation at the temple – an unforgettable experience! Our journey then turns northwards today with a drive through the Yoshino mountains to Nara, the capital of Japan before it moved to Kyoto and subsequently Tokyo. Before we leave, we have a chance to walk down to the Nachi waterfall, before returning to our hotel in Nara.
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pics 1 & 2 courtesy Bob Heffil pics 3 & 4 - Wikipedia |